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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These baths were significantly deeper and hence more encouraging than the tubs you’d see nowadays. The dominant colour for baths is white which is essentially the only method to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this era were still quite nicely made. Bathtubs in steel seemed, while construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were refined and even sometimes sculptural in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and tubs made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any kind of tub may be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Skill Level
• Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Little blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel baths are extremely heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It may be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the edges are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place constantly subjected to water, prior to applying your new tub finish, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is called for at the absolute minimum, when updating a bath’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make certain that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if additional concerns last around your skill to work safely or employ paint efficiently.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous methods for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. Regardless of the strategy you select, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Completely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the tub.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. If this is not possible, and the bath’s drain remains in good working order, remove. Tubs fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with vintage tubs), it might be best to simply mask overflow plates away. Should you determine to remove a linked lever, be conscious not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the homework period, or make an X.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire bath surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively sturdy plastic, start at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, use masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense simply to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to apply an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the tub fully and allow around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’ll level out reasonably over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers can be damaging to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Green stains or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or chips must additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.
If needed, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that may show up in the restored region.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either were not used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on choices. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Own Kit
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and a motion that is continuous, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should yield a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years, in the event that you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely. It might not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
Expert Techniques
(There’s much debate online about the favorite sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads. Hand usually does added buffing. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It’s often better left to a guru while tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are very almost priced. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The main factor in hiring a pro for this particular occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a professional based on the reputation of the business, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the genuine individual you would want doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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