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You can probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were constructed around them. These tubs were greatly fuller and hence more inviting than the tubs you had see nowadays. The dominant color for bathtubs is white and it’s basically the only solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad choices, tubs in this era were still quite well made. While construction shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel seemed, and like the cast irons, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and refined in layout.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and baths made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub can be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Advanced
• Putty knife •
Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Small mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bath, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It might be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, that the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in an area always subjected to water to remove the drain before applying your new bath finish.
Note: When upgrading a bath’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is called for at the absolute minimum.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic stuff, ensure that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns remain around your capacity to work safely or employ paint effectively.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous approaches available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Regardless of the approach you choose, take great care during this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation preparation strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Fully remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which could make its way to the underparts of the the bath.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. If this is not attainable, and the bath’s drain is still in good working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Be aware not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow should you opt to remove a lever that is connected or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the prep phase to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a relatively sturdy plastic, begin in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Before spraying, use masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub fully and let around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners might be detrimental to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or processors must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that could appear in the restored area if needed.
Wipe Down
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. In general, you’ll locate varying levels of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that cost may tell effectiveness with time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with proper attention.
Construct Your Very Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and a movement that is continuous, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should give a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years in the event that you haven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary.
Master Techniques
(There is much discussion online about the favourite sprayer type for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use a car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
It’s often better left to a master while tub refinishing can surely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the most almost priced occupations. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a pro for this particular job the most crucial variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a professional based on the standing of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the real individual you’d need doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making the decision, and review it.
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