Bathtub refinishing near me Chula Vista

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You can probably say this about a lot of things, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were built around them. These baths were greatly deeper and hence more encouraging in relation to the baths you had find now. The dominant colour for tubs is white which is nearly the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad options, tubs in this era were still quite nicely made. Bathtubs in steel appeared, while building transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel bathtubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural like the cast irons.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of bath can be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Skill Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Advanced
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack cloth
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bath, one that is “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may often start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be employed onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh look bathtub. It may be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in an area continuously subjected to water to eliminate the drain before applying your new bath finish.

Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is demanded at a minimum, when updating a bath’s drain assembly.

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Because, usually, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic materials, make sure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores if additional concerns continue around your capacity to work safely or employ paint effectively.
Prepare the Job

There are numerous methods for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. Regardless of the strategy you choose, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job preparation strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bath surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which could make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.

2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. The bath’s drain remains in great working order, and also if this is not doable, remove. Baths fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with vintage bathtubs), it may be better to just conceal overflow plates away. If you decide to remove a lever that is connected, be aware not to enable linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be {used much later.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in places where tub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense only to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Make Small Repairs

Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to implement an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub entirely and let around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections

Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers might be detrimental to bath surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Chips or dings must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry based on the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If needed, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets that may appear in the fixed region.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Only use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying levels of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Pick a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Build Your Own Clothing

Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using a constant movement and also long strokes, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In the event you haven’t skimped on homework, this approach should yield a finish that can endure between 3 and 10 years.
Implementing Finishes: Pro Approach

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It may not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently personalized.
Pro Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the favorite sprayer sort for this job.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The final coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand often does added buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
It’s frequently better left to a pro, while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is just one of the most almost priced occupations. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important warranty.
In hiring a professional for this particular job the main variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the name of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the genuine person you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics should have the capacity to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.

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