Bathtub refinishing near me Chula Vista CA

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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These tubs were significantly deeper and consequently more encouraging than the baths you had see nowadays. The dominant color for tubs is white which is almost the sole way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor options, tubs in this era were still really nicely made. Baths in steel seemed while construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were even sometimes sculptural and elegant in design.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals finally well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. Any kind of tub may be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most frequently installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Ability Level Estimated Time

• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleaner Innovative 4 to 8 Hours

• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack material
• Small combining trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Factors
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that’s “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel used before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new appearance bath. It might be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain prior to applying your new tub finish.

Note: When updating a tub’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is demanded at the absolute minimum.

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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, make certain that you have sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment can also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores if additional concerns persist around your capacity to work safely or implement paint efficiently.
Ready the Occupation

There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. No matter the strategy you choose, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job training strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the tub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which could make its way to the bottom of the tub.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain continues to be in good working order, and if this really is not feasible, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Be aware not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow if you decide to remove a linked lever or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used in the homework period, to allow for drainage of water.

4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bathtub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.

5) Mask Off the Bath Space: Using a comparatively sturdy plastic, begin in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may seem. Prior to spraying, use masking tape.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense only to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs

Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover of the tub fully and allow around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and spots can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners can be hazardous to bath surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or processors must additionally be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If necessary, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that could appear in the repaired region.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These items vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on alternatives. Generally, you’ll find varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that cost may tell effectiveness with time. Select a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Construct Your Very Own Clothing

The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth, work using long strokes and also a constant motion, overlapping somewhat. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In the event you’ven’t skimped on prep, this process should yield a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years.
Employing Finishes: Professional Strategy

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely.
Expert Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favourite sprayer sort for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The last layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand often does added buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.

Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case some of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the just finished surface. Package waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you

It is often better left to a master while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the most almost priced jobs. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The most significant factor in hiring a pro for this occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire a pro based on the reputation of the business, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the actual person you’d want doing your job. These machinists ought to have the ability to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a decision.

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