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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These baths were considerably deeper and consequently more inviting compared to the baths you’d find nowadays. The dominant colour for baths is white which is essentially the sole method to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad options, bathtubs in this era were still very well made. Baths in steel seemed, while building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel tubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel, any kind of bath can be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack cloth
• Small blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that is “built in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a fresh appearance bath. It could be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in an area constantly subjected to water to remove the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is necessary at a minimum, when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, generally, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, ensure that you have sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear can also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores if added concerns persist around your capability to work safely or apply paint effectively.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. No matter the strategy you choose, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any job preparation strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that’ll make its way to the underparts of the the bath.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. The tub’s drain continues to be in good working order, and also if this is not doable, remove. Baths fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with classic baths), it may be best to simply mask overflow plates away. Be aware not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow if you choose to remove a linked lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the homework stage to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete tub surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
Mask both the inside of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense just to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers could be hazardous to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors must additionally be addressed. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets which could appear in the repaired region.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying amounts of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Pick a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Very Own Apparel
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface when spraying. Work using a constant motion along with long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should give a finish that will last between 3 and 10 years in the event you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Applying Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely. It may not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
(There’s much discussion online about the favourite sprayer kind for this occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The concluding coat should dry for no less than an hour.
An auto compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand frequently does additional buffing. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case some of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It’s frequently better left to a pro while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is only one of the very practically priced occupations. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant guarantee.
The most important factor in hiring a professional for this particular occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a pro based on the standing of the business, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the real person you would want doing your job. These mechanics should have the capacity to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.