Bathtub refinishing near me El Cajon

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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were significantly deeper and so more inviting in relation to the tubs you’d find now. The dominant color for tubs is white and it’s also almost the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor options, tubs in this era were still really well made. Tubs in steel appeared, while construction shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel bathtubs were elegant and even occasionally sculptural like the cast irons.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and tubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any kind of tub can be refinished. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most often installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Ability Level Estimated Time

• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleaner Complex
• Putty knife •
Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Small mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it is usually best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may often begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be employed onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new look bathtub. It might be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the edges are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place continuously subjected to water to eliminate the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.

Note: When upgrading a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is necessary at a minimum.

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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, ensure that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear can also be leased at home improvement stores or rental centers if added concerns remain around your capacity to work safely or apply paint efficiently.
Ready the Occupation

There are numerous methods available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the strategy you select, take great care in this period. The steps below are common to any occupation preparation approach you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that may make its way to the bottom of the bath.

2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. The tub’s drain is still in good working order, along with if this really isn’t achievable, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Be conscious not to let linkages to fall back in the overflow if you opt to remove a linked lever or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be {used later.

4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete bath surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away stains. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.

5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively durable plastic, begin in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may appear. Apply masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense just to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the bath fully and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and spots can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleaners could be damaging to tub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or chips must also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets which could appear in the fixed region if needed.

Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Just use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. In general, you’ll locate varying levels of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Assemble Your Very Own Kit

The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using long strokes and a movement that is continuous, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should afford a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years in the event that you haven’t skimped on prep.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy

Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely. It may not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often personalized.
Professional Techniques

(There’s much debate online about the favored sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The last coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads. Hand usually does added buffing. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you

While tub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY project, it’s often better left to a master. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is only one of the jobs that are most nearly priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
The main variable in hiring a pro for this particular occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the standing of the company, on their system, or on their process, but rather on the real individual you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the capacity to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a decision.

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