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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were constructed around them. These baths were greatly fuller and therefore more inviting compared to the tubs you had see now. The dominant colour for baths is white which is essentially the sole method to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad options, tubs in this age were still really nicely made. While construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel appeared, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and tubs made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. Any type of bath could be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack material
• Small combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a fresh look bath. It might be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, ahead of applying your new tub finish, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is called for at a minimum, when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic materials, ensure that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns last around your capability to work or employ paint efficiently, ventilation equipment can also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous strategies available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the strategy you decide on, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation training strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bath.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. If this isn’t doable, as well as the bath’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Be conscious not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow should you opt to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used later in the homework period.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole bath surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a relatively sturdy plastic, start in the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures below, wrap tub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the bath entirely and let around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners could be harmful to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green stains or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips must also be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry based on the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets which could appear in the fixed region.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
That is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. The products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying degrees of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and comprehend that cost may inform effectiveness with time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Assemble Your Very Own Kit
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using a continuous movement and long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should yield a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years in the event you haven’t skimped on homework.
Implementing Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely. It might not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the preferred sprayer sort for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final coat should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Hand often does added buffing. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
While bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project, it’s often better left to a professional. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the very almost priced jobs. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important guarantee.
The most crucial factor in hiring a pro for this particular occupation is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire a pro based on the name of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the genuine person you would desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.