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You could probably say this about lots of things, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and hence more inviting compared to the tubs you had find now. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white which is virtually the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this era were still quite well made. While construction shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, baths in steel seemed, and in design, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and elegant like the casting irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. While those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel, any kind of bath could be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Skill Level
• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Innovative
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack material
• Small combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove bath, one that’s “built-in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may generally start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new look bathtub. It may be rewarding to plan for an update of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is required at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and airborne paints, make certain that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns continue around your skill to work safely or apply paint efficiently ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous approaches available for effectively preparing a bath refinish. Irrespective of the approach you choose, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any job preparation approach you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bath surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that could make its way to the bottom of the tub up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. If this isn’t possible, along with the bath’s drain continues to be in great working order, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Be conscious not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow should you choose to remove a lever that is connected or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used in the prep phase, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a relatively sturdy plastic, begin at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where faucet or tub spouts handles may appear. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures below, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense just to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the bath entirely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners can be detrimental to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips must likewise be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets that could show up in the repaired region if needed.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. The products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying degrees of dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before buying and comprehend that price may notify effectiveness over time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Build Your Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. As you move back and forth, work using long strokes and also a continuous movement, overlapping slightly. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should give a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years, in case you haven’t skimped on prep.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary.
(There is much debate online about the favorite sprayer sort for this particular job.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The last coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand usually does added buffing. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
In case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job, it is frequently better left to a guru. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are most almost priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
In hiring a professional for this particular job, the most crucial factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a pro based on the reputation of the business, on their system, or on their process, but rather on the genuine individual you’d need doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a choice.