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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These baths were considerably fuller and so more inviting in relation to the baths you’d see nowadays. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white which is virtually the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad alternatives, tubs in this age were still really nicely made. While building transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel seemed, and in layout, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and refined like the casting irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact just slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and tubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of bath can be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Advanced
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Masking tape
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Little mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may generally start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: When upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is required at a minimum.
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Because, generally, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and airborne paints, make sure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns persist around your capacity to work or implement paint effectively, ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous strategies available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. No matter the approach you choose, take great care in this period. The steps below are common to any occupation training strategy you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Completely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain is still in excellent working order, as well as if this really isn’t attainable, remove. Tubs fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with antique tubs), it might be best to just hide overflow plates off. Should you determine to remove a lever that is linked, be aware not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used later in the homework stage to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a comparatively sturdy plastic, start in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may appear. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures below, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the bath completely and allow around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this method is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be detrimental to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Chips or dings must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader.
If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that could appear in the repaired area.
Wipe Down
Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally, you’ll find varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Build Your Very Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using long strokes along with a continuous motion, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In the event that you haven’t skimped on homework, this method should give a finish that’ll endure between 3 and 10 years.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely.
Pro Techniques
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the favourite sprayer type for this particular job.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case any of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a professional, while tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the very almost priced occupations. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant guarantee.
In hiring a pro for this particular occupation the most crucial variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the standing of the company, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the real individual you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to create a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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