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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the past century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and consequently more encouraging compared to the baths you had see today. The dominant colour for baths is white and it’s also essentially the sole solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still really nicely made. While construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel seemed, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural in design.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. Any kind of tub can be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Little blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a new look bath. It might be worth it to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the borders are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in an area continuously subjected to water to eliminate the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is demanded at a minimum when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, ensure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores if additional concerns last around your skill to work safely or implement paint efficiently.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous methods for essentially preparing a tub refinish available. No matter the strategy you select, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any job prep approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Begin by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that’ll make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. If this really isn’t achievable, along with the bath’s drain remains in excellent working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with vintage bathtubs), it might be best to just mask overflow plates off. If you determine to remove a lever that is connected, be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used later in the prep phase.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bathtub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
Mask both the interior of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in places where tub spouts or faucet handles may appear. Use masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures under, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to implement an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the tub completely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers can be hazardous to bath surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or processors should additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets which could show up in the repaired area if needed.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
That is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that cost may advise effectiveness with time. Pick a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Build Your Very Own Clothing
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using a constant movement and also long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In the event you’ven’t skimped on prep, this process should yield a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years.
Applying Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It might not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the favorite sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand often does additional buffing. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a master, while bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are very practically priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant guarantee.
The most significant factor in hiring a professional for this job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a pro based on the standing of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the genuine individual you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics should have the capacity to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.