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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were built around them. These baths were significantly deeper and so more encouraging than the tubs you had find nowadays. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it’s virtually the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these poor choices, bathtubs in this age were still very nicely made. Tubs in steel seemed, while construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were elegant and even sometimes sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact just slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub may be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may often begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a fresh appearance bath. It may be worth it to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place constantly subjected to water to eliminate the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: When upgrading a tub’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is called for at a minimum.
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Because, usually, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and paints that are airborne, make sure that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns persist around your skill to work or implement paint efficiently, ventilation gear can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. Regardless of the strategy you decide on, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any job preparation strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. If this is not possible, as well as the tub’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Be aware not to enable linkages to fall back in the overflow should you decide to remove a connected lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used much later in the homework phase, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire bath surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively tough plastic, begin at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in places where faucet or tub spouts handles may appear. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps below, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it may make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the tub entirely and let around 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’ll level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be hazardous to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green stains or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips should additionally be addressed. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that may show up in the fixed region if needed.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. In general, you’ll find varying degrees of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that cost may inform effectiveness over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Build Your Very Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using a constant motion and also long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that can last between 3 and 10 years in case you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely. It may not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much debate online about the preferred sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The last coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. An auto compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
In case some of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job, it’s often better left to a professional. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is only one of the jobs that are most nearly priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important guarantee.
In hiring a pro for this occupation the main variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a professional based on the name of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the real person you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics should be able to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.