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You can probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These baths were greatly deeper and thus more encouraging than the baths you had find today. The dominant color for tubs is white which is basically the sole method to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these bad options, tubs in this era were still quite nicely made. Baths in steel seemed while construction shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were elegant and even sometimes sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub may be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level
• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Small blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Factors
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may often start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new look tub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, that the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, before applying your new bath finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is needed at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, ensure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns persist around your ability to work safely or employ paint effectively.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous strategies available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. No matter the strategy you decide on, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any job training strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the tub surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the tub.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. If this isn’t possible, along with the bath’s drain remains in great working order, remove. Baths fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with classic baths), it may be better to just conceal overflow plates away. Should you decide to remove a linked lever, be aware not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used later in the homework phase.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete tub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
Mask both the interior of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrap tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers can be damaging to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips must additionally be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets which could show up in the repaired area if needed.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either weren’t used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
That is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Construct Your Very Own Apparel
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and a constant motion, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish that can endure between 3 and 10 years in the event that you haven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the favored sprayer sort for this job.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Hand frequently does added buffing. Glazing can also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
In case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It is often better left to a master, while bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the very almost priced occupations. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
The most crucial variable in hiring a professional for this particular occupation is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a professional based on the name of the company, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the actual person you would want doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a choice.