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You can probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These tubs were significantly fuller and therefore more inviting than the tubs you’d see now. The dominant colour for baths is white which is almost the sole way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad choices, tubs in this age were still really well made. Tubs in steel appeared while construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were refined and even occasionally sculptural in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. While those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel, any kind of tub may be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
Acid etching paste
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Little blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It might be rewarding to plan for an update of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area continuously subjected to water, prior to applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is called for at a minimum when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic materials and paints that are airborne, ensure that you have sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be rented at home improvement stores or rental centres if additional concerns persist around your skill to work or employ paint efficiently.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous methods available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Regardless of the approach you decide on, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any occupation training strategy you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the underparts of the the tub up.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. If this really is not possible, and also the bathtub’s drain remains in great working order, remove. Be aware not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow if you determine to remove a lever that is connected or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used in the homework phase, or make an X.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively tough plastic, begin at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may seem. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps below, wrap bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to apply an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the tub entirely and let around 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out reasonably over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners might be detrimental to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or processors must additionally be addressed. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that may appear in the fixed region if needed.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
That is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Build Your Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using long strokes and a continuous movement, overlapping somewhat as you move forth and back. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In the event that you’ven’t skimped on prep, this process should give a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary.
(There’s much discussion online about the favorite sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The concluding coat should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Added buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
While tub refinishing can really be a DIY job, it is often better left to a professional. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is simply one of the very nearly priced occupations. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
The most crucial factor in hiring a pro for this occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the name of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the authentic individual you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics should have the capacity to create a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a decision, and review it.