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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but tubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were built around them. These baths were considerably fuller and thus more inviting compared to the tubs you had find nowadays. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s also almost the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this era were still quite well made. While construction shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, baths in steel appeared, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were even occasionally sculptural and elegant in design.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact just minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any type of bath can be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Ability Level

• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Complex
• Putty knife •
Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack cloth
• Little blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that’s “built in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new look tub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, before applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.

Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is needed at a minimum.

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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic substances, make certain that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns continue around your ability to work or use paint effectively.
Ready the Occupation

There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. Whatever the strategy you decide on, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job prep approach you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the tub surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the bath.

2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain remains in good working order, and if this isn’t doable, remove. Should you choose to remove a lever that is linked, be aware not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be {used later.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole tub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.

Mask both the interior of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may seem. Before spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures below, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it might make sense simply to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Make Minor Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to implement an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath completely and allow about 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this method is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out pretty over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections

Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleaners can be harmful to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips must likewise be addressed. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry based on the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may show up in the repaired region, if necessary.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Just use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on alternatives. In general, you’ll locate varying levels of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before buying and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Pick a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Build Your Very Own Apparel

Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using a constant movement and long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish that’ll endure between 3 and 10 years, if you haven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Strategy

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary. It may not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually quite personalized.
Expert Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much debate online about the preferred sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The last coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. A car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing can also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is often better left to a master, while bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is just one of the occupations that are most practically priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this occupation, the most important factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the name of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the genuine individual you would want doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a choice, and review it.

 

 

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