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You can probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were greatly fuller and thus more encouraging than the baths you had see today. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it is essentially the sole method to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor choices, bathtubs in this age were still really nicely made. Bathtubs in steel seemed while construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel tubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural like the casting irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact just slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub can be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack fabric
• Little mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are extremely heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that’s “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a new appearance bathtub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the edges are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place constantly subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain ahead of applying your new bath finish.
Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is demanded at the absolute minimum.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, ensure that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns continue around your capacity to work safely or apply paint effectively ventilation gear can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous methods available for essentially preparing a bath refinish. Regardless of the strategy you select, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any job prep approach you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Completely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the bottom of the tub up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. The bath’s drain remains in excellent working order, and if this really isn’t possible, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow should you determine to remove a lever that is connected or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be {used later.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete tub surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a comparatively durable plastic, begin at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense just to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to implement an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the tub completely and allow about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on tub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers might be damaging to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green stains or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish dings or processors should likewise be addressed. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that could show up in the repaired region, if needed.
Wipe Down
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally, you’ll locate varying degrees of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that cost may tell effectiveness with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with proper care.
Assemble Your Very Own Apparel
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface when spraying. Work using long strokes and a motion that is constant, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should give a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years, in the event that you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely.
Master Techniques
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the favorite sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The final coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand often does added buffing. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case some of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It’s often better left to a master, while tub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the jobs that are very almost priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this job the most important factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the standing of the business, on their system, or on their process, but rather on the authentic individual you would desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.
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