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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the past century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were built around them. These baths were significantly deeper and hence more encouraging than the baths you had see nowadays. The dominant color for tubs is white and it is almost the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these bad alternatives, tubs in this era were still quite nicely made. Baths in steel seemed, while building transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were even occasionally sculptural and refined in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. Any type of bath may be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Little blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a fresh look tub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, that the borders are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place always subjected to water to eliminate the drain before applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is demanded at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, usually, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns continue around your capability to work or implement paint effectively, ventilation gear can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous approaches available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Whatever the strategy you select, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any job preparation approach you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and end with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the tub.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. The bath’s drain remains in excellent working order, as well as if this isn’t attainable, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Be aware not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow should you decide to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be {used later.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a relatively strong plastic, start at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may appear. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps under, wrap bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Small Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the bath completely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be detrimental to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips must additionally be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets which could show up in the fixed area if necessary.
Wipe Down
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more extensive cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally, you’ll find varying amounts of dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price with time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Construct Your Very Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a constant movement, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should yield a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years in case you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely. It may not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
Ace Techniques
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the preferred sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The last coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY project, it is often better left to a guru. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are most nearly priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this particular occupation, the most significant factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the name of the firm, on their procedure, or on their system, but rather on the actual person you would need doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.
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