Bathtub refinishing near me Lemon Grove

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You could probably say this about lots of things, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were constructed around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and so more encouraging compared to the baths you’d see now. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it’s also basically the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this age were still really nicely made. Baths in steel appeared, while building transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant in layout.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. Any kind of bath may be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Materials Skill Level Estimated Time

• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Small mixing trough •
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Factors
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel used before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a fresh appearance bath. It could be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in a place continuously subjected to water to eliminate the drain before applying your new bathtub finish.

Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is called for at the absolute minimum.

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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with caustic materials and airborne paints, make certain that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns last around your ability to work safely or implement paint effectively.
Prepare the Job

There are numerous strategies for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Regardless of the approach you decide on, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any occupation preparation strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that’ll make its way to the underparts of the the bath.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. The tub’s drain remains in good working order, and also if this really is not achievable, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. If you choose to remove a lever that is connected, be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be {used later.

4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.

Mask both the interior of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense merely to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs

Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the bath completely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections

Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be detrimental to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips must additionally be addressed. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that may show up in the repaired area if necessary.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These items vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that price may notify effectiveness with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Own Clothing

The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth, work using long strokes along with a continuous motion, overlapping slightly. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should afford a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years in case you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely.
Expert Techniques

(There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer type for this job.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The last layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
Some use a car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
While tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job, it is often better left to a professional. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the very practically priced jobs. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a pro for this particular job, the main factor is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a master based on the reputation of the firm, on their procedure, or on their system, but rather on the genuine person you’d desire doing your job. These machinists should be able to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.

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