Bathtub refinishing near me San Diego

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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the past century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were assembled around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and consequently more encouraging than the tubs you had see nowadays. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it’s also almost the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor options, bathtubs in this era were still very nicely made. Tubs in steel appeared, while construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel tubs were even sometimes sculptural and refined like the casting irons.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and baths made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of bath could be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.

Tools Substances Skill Level Estimated Time

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced
• Putty knife •
Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Small combining trough •
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel used before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of homework.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new look bath. It might be rewarding to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place constantly subjected to water, ahead of applying your new tub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.

Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is necessary at the absolute minimum.

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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with caustic materials and paints that are airborne, make sure that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns remain around your capacity to work or implement paint effectively.
Prepare the Occupation

There are numerous strategies for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you choose, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation training strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that could make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.

2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. If this is not possible, as well as the bathtub’s drain continues to be in good working order, remove. Tubs fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with classic tubs), it might be best to just hide overflow plates off. Be aware not to let linkages to fall back in the overflow if you choose to remove a lever that is connected or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be {used later.

4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole tub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.

Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bath spouts or faucet handles may seem. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense only to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Make Modest Repairs

Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath completely and let around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and stains can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be damaging to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips should additionally be addressed. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets which could appear in the repaired region.

Wipe down the bath with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more extensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids were not used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally, you’ll find varying levels of dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that price may inform effectiveness with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate care.
Assemble Your Own Kit

The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a motion that is constant, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. If you’ven’t skimped on prep, this approach should yield a finish that can continue between 3 and 10 years.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely. It might not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
Ace Techniques

(There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer kind for this particular job.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The last layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Added buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you

It is often better left to a professional, while bathtub refinishing can surely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is just one of the most almost priced jobs. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The main variable in hiring a pro for this occupation is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a master based on the reputation of the business, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the actual individual you would desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.

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