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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were built around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and so more encouraging in relation to the baths you’d see now. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white which is basically the sole solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still quite nicely made. While construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel seemed, and in layout, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and refined like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub can be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level
• Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Little mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Factors
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove bath, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance bath. It might be rewarding to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, that the edges are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is demanded at the absolute minimum when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and paints that are airborne, make certain that you have sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns last around your capacity to work safely or implement paint effectively, ventilation gear may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Ready the Job
There are numerous methods for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. No matter the strategy you decide on, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation prep approach you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Completely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which could make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. If this really isn’t achievable, along with the bathtub’s drain is still in excellent working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Baths fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with vintage baths), it may be best to just conceal overflow plates away. Be aware not to let linkages to fall back in the overflow if you choose to remove a connected lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used in the homework phase, or make an X.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole tub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.
Mask both the interior of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may appear. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers could be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green stains or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Processors or dings must additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.
If needed, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that may appear in the repaired region.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. These items vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on choices. In general, you’ll find varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that price may tell effectiveness with time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate care.
Construct Your Own Kit
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and also a constant motion, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In case you haven’t skimped on homework, this process should afford a finish that’ll last between 3 and 10 years.
Using Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary.
(There is much discussion online about the favorite sprayer sort for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand often does additional buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY project, it is frequently better left to a master. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the most nearly priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant guarantee.
The most significant factor in hiring a professional for this job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a professional based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the authentic person you would need doing your job. These mechanics should be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a choice.
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