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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were built around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and therefore more encouraging in relation to the tubs you had see today. The dominant colour for baths is white and it’s virtually the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad choices, bathtubs in this age were still quite well made. Baths in steel seemed, while construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were elegant and even occasionally sculptural in design.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and baths made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub may be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level
• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Innovative
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Little combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel used before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new appearance bathtub. It might be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place always subjected to water to remove the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: When updating a tub’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is needed at the absolute minimum.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, make certain that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be leased at home improvement stores or rental centres if additional concerns last around your capacity to work or use paint effectively.
Ready the Job
There are numerous methods for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the approach you choose, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation prep approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the tub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that’ll make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. If this really is not possible, along with the tub’s drain remains in great working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Should you choose to remove a linked lever, be conscious not to let linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used in the prep stage to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire tub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
Mask both the interior of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures beneath, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it may make sense only to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the bath entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers can be harmful to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips must also be addressed. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets that could appear in the repaired area if necessary.
Wipe Down
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These items vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally, you’ll find varying amounts of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before buying and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Build Your Own Apparel
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using a continuous motion along with long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years in the event you haven’t skimped on prep.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely. It might not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
Pro Techniques
(There’s much debate online about the favored sprayer sort for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand frequently does additional buffing. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
While tub refinishing can really be a DIY project, it is frequently better left to a guru. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is simply one of the jobs that are very almost priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant warranty.
In hiring a pro for this particular job, the most crucial factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the standing of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the real individual you would need doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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