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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were significantly fuller and consequently more encouraging in relation to the baths you’d find nowadays. The dominant color for bathtubs is white and it’s also basically the only method to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor options, tubs in this era were still really well made. Baths in steel seemed, while building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel bathtubs were even occasionally sculptural and refined like the cast irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any kind of tub can be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Ability Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Small blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel employed before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new look bathtub. It could be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, before applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is needed at a minimum, when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with caustic materials and airborne paints, ensure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your skill to work or use paint effectively ventilation equipment may also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous methods available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the approach you choose, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job training strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Begin by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the bath.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. If this is not doable, and also the bath’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow if you decide to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be {used much later.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub stains away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a comparatively sturdy plastic, start at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps below, wrap bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense just to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this process is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be detrimental to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or chips must also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.
If needed, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that could appear in the fixed region.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more thorough cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids were not used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying degrees of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that cost may notify effectiveness with time. Pick a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Build Your Own Clothing
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth work using long strokes and a continuous motion, overlapping somewhat. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should yield a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years in the event you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Employing Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary. It might not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently personalized.
Ace Techniques
(There’s much debate online about the preferred sprayer type for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing can also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can surely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is just one of the jobs that are very practically priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The most crucial variable in hiring a professional for this particular occupation is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire an expert based on the standing of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the genuine person you would want doing your job. These mechanics should be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.
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