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You can probably say this about lots of things, but tubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were assembled around them. These tubs were significantly deeper and thus more encouraging than the tubs you had find now. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it’s virtually the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this age were still quite well made. Tubs in steel seemed while construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel tubs were even occasionally sculptural and elegant in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and bathtubs made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel, any type of tub could be refinished. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level
• Acid-Established commercial cleanser Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Little combining trough •
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may often start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new look bath. It might be rewarding to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain ahead of applying your new tub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is demanded at a minimum, when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Because, usually, you’ll be working with caustic substances and paints that are airborne, ensure that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores if additional concerns continue around your capability to work or implement paint effectively.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous strategies available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Regardless of the strategy you select, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any job prep strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and end with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that will make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain continues to be in great working order, along with if this is not possible, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow should you opt to remove a linked lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes used} in the homework phase, or make an X.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole tub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a comparatively tough plastic, begin in the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub fully and let around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers could be damaging to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or chips must also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry based on the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that may show up in the restored region, if needed.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by price with time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Own Kit
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and also a continuous movement, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This process should afford a finish that’ll endure between 3 and 10 years, in the event you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It may not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the preferred sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The concluding layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. A car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
While tub refinishing can surely be a DIY project, it’s often better left to a master. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the most nearly priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant guarantee.
In hiring a professional for this particular job, the most significant variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the reputation of the business, on their process, or on their system, but instead on the authentic person you would desire doing your job. These machinists ought to have the capacity to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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