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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the past century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were built around them. These tubs were considerably deeper and thus more encouraging than the baths you had see today. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it is nearly the sole solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this era were still quite nicely made. While building shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel seemed, and in layout, these steel tubs were elegant and even sometimes sculptural like the cast irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and baths made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. Any kind of bath could be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Little blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may often begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel applied before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a fresh look bath. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the borders are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place always subjected to water to remove the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.
Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is demanded at a minimum.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic stuff, make sure that you have sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be rented at home improvement stores or rental centers if added concerns last around your capability to work safely or use paint effectively.
Ready the Job
There are numerous approaches for essentially preparing a tub refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you select, take great care during this phase. The measures below are common to any job preparation strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that’ll make its way to the bottom of the bath.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing bath hardware. If this isn’t possible, and also the bathtub’s drain is still in excellent working order, remove. Tubs fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with antique tubs), it may be best to just conceal overflow plates away. Should you opt to remove a lever that is linked, be aware not to let linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used much later in the homework stage, or make an X.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Space: Using a comparatively tough plastic, start at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures below, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense simply to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the tub completely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out reasonably over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers can be harmful to tub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors should likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets which could appear in the fixed area if needed.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more thorough cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. The products vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on choices. In general, you’ll find varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that price may inform effectiveness over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Assemble Your Own Kit
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. As you move back and forth work using long strokes along with a continuous motion, overlapping slightly. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should afford a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years, if you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely. It may not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often personalized.
(There is much discussion online about the preferred sprayer kind for this particular job.n general, choose airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The last layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. An auto compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand frequently does added buffing. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
In case any of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It is frequently better left to a master while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the jobs that are very nearly priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant guarantee.
In hiring a pro for this particular occupation, the most crucial variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a professional based on the standing of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the authentic person you would desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the capacity to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a choice.
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