Bathtub refinishing near me Chula Vista

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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These tubs were significantly deeper and therefore more inviting in relation to the tubs you’d find now. The dominant color for tubs is white and it is basically the sole solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and so on. Despite these bad options, bathtubs in this era were still very nicely made. Tubs in steel seemed, while construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and in layout, these steel bathtubs were refined and even sometimes sculptural like the cast irons.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of bath can be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Substances Ability Level Estimated Time

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack fabric
• Little combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it is usually best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may often start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new look bath. It could be worth it to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, prior to applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.

Note: When updating a bathtub’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is necessary at the absolute minimum.

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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be leased at home improvement stores or rental centres if additional concerns last around your capability to work safely or use paint effectively.
Prepare the Job

There are numerous methods available for effectively preparing a bath refinish. Irrespective of the approach you decide on, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation training approach you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the tub surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that will make its way to the underparts of the the tub up.

2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. The bathtub’s drain continues to be in good working order, along with if this really isn’t attainable, remove. If you opt to remove a lever that is linked, be aware not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used in the prep stage to allow for drainage of water.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire tub surface. Allow the product sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where faucet or tub spouts handles may seem. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it may make sense merely to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs

Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath entirely and let around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this method is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections

Stains and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on tub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleansers can be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green stains or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or processors must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that could show up in the fixed area, if necessary.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the bath with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more thorough cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either weren’t used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. In general, you’ll find varying levels of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that cost may advise effectiveness with time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Construct Your Own Kit

The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and also a constant movement, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This method should give a finish that will continue between 3 and 10 years if you haven’t skimped on prep.
Applying Finishes: Professional Approach

Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary. It may not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
Professional Techniques

(There’s much debate online about the preferred sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The concluding coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads. Hand frequently does additional buffing. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
It’s often better left to a guru, while tub refinishing can surely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the most nearly priced jobs. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant warranty.
The most crucial variable in hiring a pro for this job is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a master based on the reputation of the company, on their procedure, or on their system, but rather on the genuine person you’d need doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.

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