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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and so more inviting in relation to the tubs you’d find today. The dominant colour for baths is white and it is essentially the only way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this age were still quite well made. While building transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel seemed, and in layout, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and refined like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of bath may be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Small mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel used before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new look tub. It may be rewarding to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, before applying your new tub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is called for at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and paints that are airborne, make certain that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns continue around your ability to work safely or employ paint effectively.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous methods available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Whatever the approach you select, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any job prep strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Completely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bath.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing bath hardware. If this really is not feasible, and the bath’s drain is still in great working order, remove. Baths fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with vintage tubs), it may be better to just conceal overflow plates off. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow should you choose to remove a lever that is connected or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used in the prep period.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole tub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.
Mask both the interior of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures below, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense just to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to implement an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub entirely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be detrimental to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or processors should additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.
If needed, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets which could appear in the restored area.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. In general, you’ll locate varying levels of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by price with time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Very Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. As you move back and forth work using long strokes along with a continuous motion, overlapping slightly. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that can continue between 3 and 10 years if you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much debate online about the favourite sprayer sort for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The concluding coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Added buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a master, while bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are very nearly priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant guarantee.
The most important factor in hiring a pro for this job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a pro based on the reputation of the business, on their procedure, or on their system, but rather on the genuine individual you would want doing your job. These mechanics should have the ability to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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