Bathtub refinishing near me Jamul CA

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You can probably say this about a lot of things, but tubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were assembled around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and hence more encouraging compared to the tubs you had find today. The dominant colour for baths is white and it’s also almost the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad options, bathtubs in this age were still quite well made. Tubs in steel appeared while building shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel baths were elegant and even sometimes sculptural like the casting irons.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. While those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel, any type of tub could be refinished. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Ability Level Estimated Time

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth

• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Little combining trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a new appearance bathtub. It might be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.

Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is required at the absolute minimum, when updating a tub’s drain assembly.

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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, ensure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it could also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns last around your skill to work or implement paint effectively, ventilation equipment can also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job

There are numerous methods available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Regardless of the approach you choose, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any job preparation strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which could make its way to the bottom of the tub up.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain remains in great working order, as well as if this really is not possible, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Should you determine to remove a lever that is connected, be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be {used much later.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.

Mask both the inside of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Apply masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense merely to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to employ an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub entirely and let around 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this process is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they are going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections

Stains and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be hazardous to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or processors should additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.

Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets which could appear in the restored area if necessary.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the tub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Only use if acids were not used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on alternatives. Generally, you’ll locate varying degrees of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that price may advise effectiveness over time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Assemble Your Own Kit

Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using long strokes and also a constant motion, overlapping somewhat as you move forth and back. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years, in the event that you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Employing Finishes: Professional Approach

Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely. It may not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
Professional Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the preferred sprayer type for this particular job.n general, pick airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The final coat should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Added buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.

Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the very nearly priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important warranty.
The most important factor in hiring a pro for this job is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a pro based on the reputation of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the authentic individual you would need doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.

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