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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were built around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and therefore more encouraging compared to the baths you’d see now. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it’s nearly the sole way to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad choices, bathtubs in this age were still really nicely made. While construction shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel appeared, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were elegant and even occasionally sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact just minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub could be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Small blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may often start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel used before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new appearance bathtub. It could be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area always subjected to water, before applying your new bath finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: When upgrading a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is demanded at the absolute minimum.
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Because, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic stuff, make certain that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores if additional concerns continue around your skill to work safely or use paint effectively.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous strategies available for effectively preparing a bath refinish. Irrespective of the approach you select, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation preparation approach you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain is still in good working order, and if this really is not attainable, remove the bath’s overflow plate. If you decide to remove a lever that is linked, be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used in the prep period, or make an X.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bath surface. Allow the product sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away stains. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a relatively strong plastic, begin in the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or tub spouts handles may seem. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the tub entirely and allow about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’ll level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleansers could be damaging to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips should also be addressed. Blend a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets that may show up in the repaired region if necessary.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either were not used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying degrees of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Select a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Own Kit
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and also a motion that is continuous, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should give a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years in the event you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It might not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
(There’s much discussion online about the favorite sprayer kind for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The last layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is often better left to a professional, while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are very practically priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant guarantee.
In hiring a professional for this job the most crucial factor is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the name of the company, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the real individual you’d desire doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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