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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and hence more inviting than the tubs you’d find now. The dominant color for bathtubs is white and it’s also basically the only method to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these poor options, bathtubs in this era were still very well made. Baths in steel appeared while construction shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and refined in design.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bath. Any type of bath may be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack fabric
• Small blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a brand new look bathtub. It might be worth it to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, prior to applying your new bath finish, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is necessary at a minimum, when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, ensure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns last around your capacity to work or implement paint effectively ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous strategies available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Whatever the approach you choose, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation preparation approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the underparts of the the tub up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. The bathtub’s drain remains in good working order, along with if this is not attainable, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with antique baths), it may be better to just conceal overflow plates away. Be aware not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow should you opt to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used in the homework stage, or make an X.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a relatively sturdy plastic, start in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it might make sense simply to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Small Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to employ an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub fully and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bath surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be damaging to bath surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors should also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets that may show up in the repaired region.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more extensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids were not used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. Generally, you’ll locate varying levels of dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before buying and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Build Your Own Clothing
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and also a movement that is constant, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In the event you’ven’t skimped on homework, this method should give a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years.
Applying Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely.
(There’s much debate online about the favorite sprayer type for this occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The last layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Added buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a master, while bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are most almost priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this occupation, the most significant factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a professional based on the standing of the business, on their procedure, or on their system, but instead on the genuine individual you’d desire doing your job. These machinists should have the ability to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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