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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and thus more inviting compared to the baths you had find nowadays. The dominant color for bathtubs is white which is nearly the sole solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these bad choices, bathtubs in this age were still quite well made. Baths in steel appeared while building transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and in layout, these steel baths were refined and even occasionally sculptural like the cast irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and baths made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub may be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Innovative
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Little combining trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel baths are extremely heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it is usually best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new look tub. It might be rewarding to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area continuously subjected to water, before applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is demanded at a minimum when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, make sure that you have sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your ability to work or use paint effectively ventilation equipment may also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous methods available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the approach you decide on, take great care in this period. The steps below are common to any occupation preparation strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that’ll make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. The bathtub’s drain remains in great working order, and also if this really is not doable, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Baths fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with vintage tubs), it may be best to just mask overflow plates off. Be aware not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow if you decide to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used much later in the homework period, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
Mask both the interior of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may appear. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps below, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense only to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub fully and allow about 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out pretty over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleansers can be hazardous to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors must also be addressed. Mix a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that could appear in the repaired region if needed.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Just use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
That is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying degrees of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that cost may tell effectiveness over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Very Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and also a motion that is constant, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. If you’ven’t skimped on prep, this method should afford a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the preferred sprayer type for this particular job.n general, choose airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is implemented. The last layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Hand frequently does additional buffing. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It’s frequently better left to a master, while tub refinishing can really be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is only one of the most nearly priced occupations. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with an important warranty.
In hiring a pro for this particular occupation the main variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a master based on the standing of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the real individual you would need doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.
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