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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but tubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These baths were considerably fuller and therefore more inviting than the baths you had find today. The dominant color for tubs is white and it’s also essentially the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these bad options, bathtubs in this age were still very well made. While building transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel seemed, and in design, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and baths made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. Any kind of tub could be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Based commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack fabric
• Small combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh look tub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place constantly subjected to water, before applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: When updating a bathtub’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is necessary at a minimum.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, make certain that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be rented at home improvement stores or rental centers if added concerns continue around your capacity to work or apply paint efficiently.
Ready the Job
There are numerous strategies available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Whatever the approach you select, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any job training strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Begin by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain is still in good working order, along with if this isn’t attainable, remove. Tubs fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with antique baths), it may be best to just hide overflow plates away. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow if you determine to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used in the prep phase.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire bath surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Area: Using a comparatively tough plastic, begin at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in places where tub spouts or faucet handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense only to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the tub entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners could be hazardous to bath surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish dings or processors must likewise be addressed. Mix a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in modest pockets which could show up in the repaired region if necessary.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids either were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
That is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. In general, you’ll locate varying levels of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that cost may advise effectiveness over time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Own Clothing
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth, work using long strokes and also a continuous movement, overlapping somewhat. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This approach should afford a finish that’ll endure between 3 and 10 years in the event you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Applying Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary.
(There’s much discussion online about the favorite sprayer kind for this job.n general, choose airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. An auto compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s frequently better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are most practically priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
The most important variable in hiring a pro for this job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a professional based on the name of the company, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the actual person you would need doing your job. These mechanics should have the ability to create a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.
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