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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but tubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were assembled around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and thus more inviting compared to the baths you’d find now. The dominant color for baths is white and it is basically the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these bad alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still really well made. Bathtubs in steel appeared while building shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel bathtubs were even occasionally sculptural and elegant in design.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of bath may be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Advanced 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bath, one that is “built-in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh look tub. It may be worth it to plan for an update of the tub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. In an area continuously subjected to water, prior to applying your new bathtub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: When upgrading a tub’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is needed at the absolute minimum.
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Because, usually, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and airborne paints, ensure that you’ve got adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores if additional concerns remain around your ability to work safely or use paint efficiently.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous approaches for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the approach you decide on, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any job preparation strategy you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and end with a straight razor blade. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the bath up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. If this isn’t feasible, and the tub’s drain continues to be in great working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Baths fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with vintage bathtubs), it may be best to simply conceal overflow plates away. Should you decide to remove a lever that is linked, be conscious not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used later in the prep phase to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Space: Using a comparatively tough plastic, start at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the face of the bath completely and allow about 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this process is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be detrimental to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Chips or dings should likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
If necessary, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets which could show up in the fixed region.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
That is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These items vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on alternatives. Generally, you’ll find varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Very Own Apparel
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth work using long strokes along with a continuous motion, overlapping somewhat. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This process should give a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years in case you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary widely. It may not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the favorite sprayer kind for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Hand frequently does added buffing. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
In case some of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It is frequently better left to a guru while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the occupations that are most practically priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
The most important variable in hiring a pro for this occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a pro based on the standing of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the actual individual you would need doing your job. These mechanics should be able to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.
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