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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were assembled around them. These tubs were significantly fuller and consequently more inviting compared to the baths you had find today. The dominant color for bathtubs is white and it is almost the sole solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this era were still very well made. Bathtubs in steel seemed while construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were refined and even sometimes sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and baths made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel, any type of tub can be refinished. This post focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Skill Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack material
• Small blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Factors
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is usually best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a procedure called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a fresh look bath. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the edges are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain ahead of applying your new bath finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is demanded at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic substances, ensure that you have sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns continue around your capability to work or use paint effectively, ventilation gear may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous approaches for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the strategy you select, take great care in this phase. The measures below are common to any occupation preparation approach you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the tub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Completely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which will make its way to the bottom of the tub up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. If this really isn’t possible, as well as the bath’s drain continues to be in good working order, remove. Tubs fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with vintage tubs), it might be best to just mask overflow plates away. If you decide to remove a linked lever, be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used later in the prep phase.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a comparatively durable plastic, begin in the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to implement an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover of the bath entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this process is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they are going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on tub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleansers might be harmful to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors must also be addressed. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that could show up in the fixed area, if necessary.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more extensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There’s a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on alternatives. Generally, you’ll find varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Construct Your Very Own Apparel
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes along with a constant movement, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that will last between 3 and 10 years in the event you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Implementing Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the preferred sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The final layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Added buffing is often done by hand. Glazing may also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into building totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It is frequently better left to a professional while bathtub refinishing can surely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the very nearly priced occupations. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this job the most important variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a professional based on the name of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but rather on the actual person you’d want doing your job. These mechanics should have the ability to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.
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