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You could probably say this about lots of things, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These baths were greatly deeper and hence more encouraging compared to the tubs you had find nowadays. The dominant colour for baths is white and it is almost the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this era were still very well made. Baths in steel seemed while construction shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel baths were elegant and even occasionally sculptural like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. Any type of bath may be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Complex 4 to 8 Hours
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Wire brush • Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack fabric
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a fresh look bathtub. It could be rewarding to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the edges are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is needed at a minimum when updating a bath’s drain assembly.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and paints that are airborne, ensure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it could also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns remain around your capacity to work safely or implement paint effectively, ventilation gear may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous methods available for essentially preparing a bath refinish. Whatever the approach you select, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation training approach you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the tub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. The bath’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, and also if this isn’t achievable, remove the tub’s overflow plate. If you opt to remove a lever that is linked, be aware not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes used} in the prep phase to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bath surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively tough plastic, start in the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Use masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Small Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the bath entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this method is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and spots can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be hazardous to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Processors or dings should likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
If needed, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that may appear in the fixed area.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Only use if acids either were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
That is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on alternatives. In general, you’ll locate varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that price may inform effectiveness with time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate care.
Construct Your Very Own Kit
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using a constant movement and long strokes, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In the event that you haven’t skimped on homework, this method should yield a finish that will last between 3 and 10 years.
Employing Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It might not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the preferred sprayer kind for this occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The final coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Hand usually does additional buffing. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the just finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It is often better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the occupations that are very nearly priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important guarantee.
The most important factor in hiring a pro for this particular occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a pro based on the name of the firm, on their procedure, or on their system, but instead on the real person you would desire doing your job. These machinists ought to have the ability to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a choice, and review it.
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