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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and consequently more inviting in relation to the baths you’d find now. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it’s virtually the only way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these bad options, tubs in this age were still very well made. Bathtubs in steel appeared while construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel baths were even sometimes sculptural and elegant like the casting irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. While those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel, any type of tub could be refinished. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Stuff Ability Level
• Acid-Based commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
Acid etching paste
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack fabric
• Small blending trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel baths are extremely heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh look tub. It could be rewarding to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to eliminate the drain before applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is called for at the absolute minimum when updating a tub’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic materials and paints that are airborne, make certain that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns persist around your capacity to work safely or implement paint efficiently ventilation gear can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Job
There are numerous methods for essentially preparing a tub refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you choose, take great care in this period. The steps below are common to any occupation training strategy you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the tub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the bottom of the bathtub.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. The tub’s drain continues to be in great working order, as well as if this isn’t achievable, remove. Tubs fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with classic tubs), it may be better to simply mask overflow plates off. If you determine to remove a lever that is linked, be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used much later in the prep period.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away stains. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
Mask both the interior of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or tub spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps below, wrap bath spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense simply to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the tub completely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleansers could be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that may show up in the restored area.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids either were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
That is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These items vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying levels of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with proper attention.
Build Your Own Apparel
Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth, work using long strokes and a constant movement, overlapping somewhat. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In case you’ven’t skimped on prep, this approach should afford a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the favourite sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The final coat should dry for no less than an hour.
Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Hand frequently does additional buffing. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case some of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is simply one of the most nearly priced occupations. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The main factor in hiring a pro for this job is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire an expert based on the name of the business, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the actual individual you would desire doing your job. These mechanics should be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.
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