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You can probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were constructed around them. These baths were considerably fuller and hence more inviting compared to the tubs you’d see nowadays. The dominant color for bathtubs is white which is basically the sole method to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor options, bathtubs in this era were still very well made. Baths in steel appeared, while building transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were even occasionally sculptural and elegant in layout.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of bath may be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most frequently installed bathtub.

Tools Substances Skill Level Estimated Time

• Acid-Based commercial cleaner Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth

Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack cloth
• Small blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it is typically best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a brand new appearance tub. It may be rewarding to plan for an update of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the edges are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place always subjected to water to eliminate the drain before applying your new bath finish.

Note: When updating a tub’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is needed at the absolute minimum.

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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and paints that are airborne, make certain that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns continue around your capacity to work safely or implement paint efficiently, ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Job

There are numerous methods for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. No matter the approach you choose, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bathtub surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Completely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.

2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. The bathtub’s drain continues to be in great working order, along with if this is not possible, remove. Should you determine to remove a linked lever, be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used much later in the prep stage, or make an X.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete tub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.

Mask both the interior of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures under, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense just to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath completely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of implementing a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections

Stains and grittiness can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be harmful to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips must also be addressed. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.

If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that could show up in the fixed region.

Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Simply use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These items vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying levels of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that cost may advise effectiveness over time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate care.
Construct Your Own Kit

The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and a continuous movement, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should afford a finish that can endure between 3 and 10 years, if you haven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Professional Approach

Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It might not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often personalized.
Expert Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer type for this job.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The last layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Added buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing can also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project, it’s often better left to a pro. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the occupations that are very practically priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this particular occupation, the main factor is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a master based on the standing of the business, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the actual person you would want doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the ability to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a choice, and review it.



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