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You can probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These tubs were significantly deeper and so more encouraging than the tubs you’d see now. The dominant color for bathtubs is white and it is virtually the only way to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this era were still very nicely made. Baths in steel appeared while construction shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant in layout.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these alloys ultimately well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub may be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most frequently installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Ability Level Estimated Time

• Acid-Established commercial cleanser Advanced
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Small combining trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may often begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel employed before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new look bathtub. It may be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.

Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is called for at the absolute minimum when updating a bath’s drain assembly.

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Because, usually, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and airborne paints, make certain that you have sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your ability to work safely or employ paint effectively ventilation equipment may also be rented at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job

There are numerous strategies for essentially preparing a tub refinish available. Irrespective of the strategy you choose, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the tub surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub.

2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. If this is not doable, as well as the bathtub’s drain continues to be in good working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with classic tubs), it may be better to simply conceal overflow plates away. Be conscious not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow if you determine to remove a lever that is linked or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be {used later.

4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole tub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.

Mask both the inside of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Use masking tape prior to spraying.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures below, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense just to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the tub fully and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This is achieved by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and spots can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners might be detrimental to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors should likewise be addressed. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry based on the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If needed, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may show up in the fixed region.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give the bathtub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Just use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. These items vary widely from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on choices. In general, you’ll locate varying levels of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before purchasing and understand that price may tell effectiveness over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with appropriate attention.
Assemble Your Own Clothing

The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and a movement that is constant, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This method should give a finish that can last between 3 and 10 years, in the event that you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Pro Approach

Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It may not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually quite personalized.
Master Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer sort for this particular occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The final layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
Some use a car compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.

Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you

It is often better left to a master while tub refinishing can surely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is only one of the jobs that are most almost priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a significant guarantee.
In hiring a pro for this particular job the main factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a professional based on the reputation of the company, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the actual individual you’d desire doing your job. These machinists should be able to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a decision.

 

 

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