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You could probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These baths were considerably deeper and hence more inviting than the baths you had see nowadays. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s also essentially the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this era were still really well made. While building transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel seemed, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural in design.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a tub. Any kind of tub could be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Materials Ability Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Complex
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack fabric
• Small blending trough •
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, as mentioned previously, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it is usually best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may often begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other way of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new appearance bathtub. It might be worth it to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, prior to applying your new tub finish, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain.

Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is required at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.

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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, usually, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic materials, ensure that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns persist around your ability to work or apply paint effectively ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation

There are numerous approaches for essentially preparing a tub refinish available. Irrespective of the approach you select, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which could make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing tub hardware. The tub’s drain remains in good working order, and if this really isn’t attainable, remove the tub’s overflow plate. If you determine to remove a linked lever, be conscious not to let linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used much later in the prep stage.

4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete tub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.

5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively sturdy plastic, begin at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in places where faucet or bath spouts handles may seem. Apply masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense only to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Make Modest Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to apply an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the bath entirely and allow around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Tub Surface Imperfections

Spots and grittiness can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleansers could be harmful to bathtub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Processors or dings should additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that could appear in the repaired area, if necessary.

Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids were not used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying degrees of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish continuing one to five years with proper attention.
Assemble Your Very Own Kit

The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using long strokes along with a constant movement, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should afford a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years, if you haven’t skimped on prep.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary.
Ace Techniques

(There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer kind for this job.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The last coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Added buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.

It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the just finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you

It is often better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is simply one of the most nearly priced jobs. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this particular job the most significant variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a pro based on the standing of the business, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the authentic person you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to have the capacity to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.



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