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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were built around them. These baths were considerably fuller and thus more inviting than the baths you’d find nowadays. The dominant color for baths is white and it’s nearly the sole way to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this era were still quite nicely made. Bathtubs in steel seemed, while building shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and in design, these steel bathtubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural like the cast irons.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. Any kind of bath can be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Little combining trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a fresh appearance tub. It could be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in an area continuously subjected to water to eliminate the drain before applying your new bath finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is called for at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, ensure that you have sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns persist around your capacity to work or implement paint effectively, ventilation gear can also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous strategies available for effectively preparing a tub refinish. Regardless of the approach you select, take great care during this phase. The measures below are common to any job prep approach you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be contacting the bath surface. Start by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and end with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which could make its way to the bottom of the tub.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present bath hardware. If this isn’t possible, and the tub’s drain is still in excellent working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Be aware not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow if you choose to remove a linked lever or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the prep phase, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively durable plastic, start in the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Use masking tape before spraying.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps under, wrap bath spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Alternatively, it may make sense simply to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the tub fully and let around 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with store towels.
Choices for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this process is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be damaging to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Processors or dings must also be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets which could show up in the restored region, if needed.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
That is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally, you’ll find varying degrees of dry times and quality with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Assemble Your Own Apparel
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using a continuous motion along with long strokes, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. In the event you haven’t skimped on prep, this method should afford a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years.
Using Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary widely.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the favorite sprayer type for this job.n general, select airless and HVLP finished others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Hand frequently does added buffing. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction totes and dispose of appropriately.
It’s often better left to a master, while tub refinishing can surely be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is just one of the most nearly priced jobs. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a pro for this particular occupation, the main factor is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the name of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the real individual you would need doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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