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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These baths were significantly fuller and hence more inviting in relation to the baths you had find nowadays. The dominant colour for baths is white which is nearly the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these bad alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still very nicely made. While construction shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel appeared, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were refined and even occasionally sculptural in layout.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these alloys finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of bath could be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex
Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack material
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Factors
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bath, one that is “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bathtub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new look tub. It could be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, that the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, before applying your new bath finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: When updating a bathtub’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is necessary at the absolute minimum.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with caustic substances and paints that are airborne, make sure that you have adequate venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores if added concerns last around your capacity to work or use paint efficiently.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Regardless of the strategy you decide on, take great care in this period. The measures below are common to any occupation preparation approach you might pick:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bath surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that will make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. If this isn’t feasible, along with the bathtub’s drain is still in good working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with classic bathtubs), it might be best to just conceal overflow plates away. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow should you opt to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes used} in the homework stage to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bath surface. Allow the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively strong plastic, start at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, use masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps below, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it might make sense just to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to use an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the bath fully and let around 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This really is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green stains or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors should likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets which could appear in the fixed area if necessary.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
That is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. In general, you’ll locate varying degrees of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and comprehend that cost may notify effectiveness with time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with proper attention.
Assemble Your Very Own Clothing
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and also a continuous motion, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This process should afford a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years in the event that you haven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary. It might not be surprising that lots of pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is frequently quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much discussion online about the favourite sprayer kind for this occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The last layer should dry for no less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Hand often does added buffing. Glazing may also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a guru while tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is simply one of the very almost priced jobs. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant guarantee.
The most important variable in hiring a professional for this particular job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the genuine individual you would need doing your job. These machinists should have the ability to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.