Bathtub refinishing near me Spring Valley CA

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You can probably say this about a lot of things, but bathtubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. Bathrooms were built around them. These tubs were greatly deeper and hence more encouraging compared to the tubs you had see now. The dominant colour for tubs is white which is almost the only solution to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in pastels, browns, beige, and so on. Despite these bad alternatives, tubs in this era were still very nicely made. Tubs in steel seemed while construction transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were even occasionally sculptural and refined in design.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact only minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. Any kind of bath could be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This post focus on the redo of an alcove tub, undoubtedly the most frequently installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Skill Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Innovative

• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Little mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Factors
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new appearance bathtub. It might be rewarding to plan for an update of the bath’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, that the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in a place constantly subjected to water to eliminate the drain before applying your new bathtub finish.

Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, access to the lower wall cavity behind the bathtub drain is needed at the absolute minimum.

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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if added concerns persist around your capacity to work safely or employ paint effectively.
Prepare the Job

There are numerous approaches available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Whatever the approach you decide on, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation training strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bath surface. Start by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which could make its way to the bottom of the bath.

2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. If this is not attainable, as well as the bath’s drain continues to be in great working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Should you determine to remove a linked lever, be aware not to permit linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be {used much later.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the entire bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

Mask both the interior of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Use masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures below, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense just to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub fully and allow about 15 minutes for this product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this method is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Bath Surface Imperfections

Stains and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers might be detrimental to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips must also be addressed. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If necessary, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that may show up in the fixed area.

Wipe down the bath with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either weren’t used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally, you’ll locate varying amounts of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that cost may inform effectiveness over time. Select a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should afford a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Very Own Apparel

The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and also a motion that is continuous, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that can endure between 3 and 10 years, in case you haven’t skimped on homework.
Using Finishes: Professional Approach

Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary.
Expert Techniques

(There’s much discussion online about the favored sprayer type for this particular occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The final coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
Some use a car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads. Added buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the recently finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you

While tub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job, it is frequently better left to a professional. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is only one of the occupations that are very practically priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a pro for this occupation, the main variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire a professional based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the genuine individual you would need doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.

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