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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were assembled around them. These tubs were considerably fuller and therefore more encouraging in relation to the tubs you’d find nowadays. The dominant color for baths is white and it is basically the only way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor alternatives, tubs in this era were still really well made. Tubs in steel seemed while building shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and refined in design.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact only minor tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub could be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level
• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex
Acid etching paste
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack cloth
• Small blending trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are incredibly heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built-in,” it is typically best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may generally start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a brand new appearance bath. It might be worthwhile to plan for an update of the bathtub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the borders are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place continuously subjected to water, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain ahead of applying your new tub finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bathtub drain is required at a minimum when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns last around your capacity to work safely or use paint effectively, ventilation gear may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a tub refinish available. No matter the approach you decide on, take great care during this phase. The steps below are common to any job preparation strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that could make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.
2) Remove OR Mask the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace present tub hardware. If this isn’t achievable, and also the bath’s drain remains in good working order, remove. Baths fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (particularly with antique baths), it may be best to simply conceal overflow plates away. If you determine to remove a lever that is linked, be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used in the prep period, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away stains. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
Mask both the interior of the bath in addition to the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Prior to spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense just to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Minor Repairs
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the tub completely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) discs fitted to an angle grinder. While this process is somewhat aggressive, most completing products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners could be detrimental to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors must additionally be addressed. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
If necessary, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets which could appear in the repaired region.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a much more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids either were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly countless collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally, you’ll locate varying degrees of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Select a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Construct Your Very Own Clothing
The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and also a movement that is continuous, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish which will endure between 3 and 10 years, in the event you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their views vary. It may not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
(There’s much debate online about the favourite sprayer sort for this occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the product used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is employed. The final layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing can also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.
In case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
While bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project, it is often better left to a professional. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is simply one of the most practically priced occupations. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this job the most significant factor is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a professional based on the name of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but rather on the authentic person you’d want doing your job. These machinists should be able to create a portfolio of references and work. Request it before making the decision, and review it.