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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the last century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were built around them. These baths were considerably fuller and consequently more inviting in relation to the baths you’d find now. The dominant color for tubs is white and it’s also essentially the sole method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these bad options, tubs in this era were still really nicely made. While building shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, tubs in steel seemed, and like the cast irons, these steel bathtubs were even occasionally sculptural and elegant in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just small tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and bathtubs made of these alloys finally last well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any kind of tub may be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most often installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced
Acid etching paste
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack fabric
• Small mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new appearance tub. It may be worth it to plan for an update of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In a place constantly subjected to water, it seems sensible at minimum to remove the drain before applying your new tub finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is called for at the absolute minimum, when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.
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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with caustic materials and airborne paints, make certain that you have sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment can also be leased at home improvement stores or rental centres if added concerns last around your ability to work safely or apply paint efficiently.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous approaches available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the approach you select, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any job prep approach you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting on the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and conclude with a straight razor blade. Fully remove all present caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the tub.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. The bathtub’s drain remains in excellent working order, and also if this really is not attainable, remove. Baths fitted with connected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with classic tubs), it might be better to just conceal overflow plates away. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow if you choose to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used much later in the prep stage to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the entire bath surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Bath Space: Using a comparatively tough plastic, start in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in places where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Prior to spraying, use masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures under, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense merely to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to employ an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub fully and let around 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this procedure is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out moderately over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be harmful to bath surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Processors or dings should additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets which could appear in the fixed region if necessary.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Elective: For a more thorough cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There’s a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. In general, you’ll locate varying degrees of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by price over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Very Own Kit
The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and a constant movement, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This process should give a finish that can last between 3 and 10 years, if you haven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Strategy
Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary. It might not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
(There is much discussion online about the favourite sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, select airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The final coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Added buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be employed with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the newly finished surface. Package waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is just one of the most practically priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a warranty that is significant.
The most significant factor in hiring a professional for this particular job is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the name of the company, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the authentic person you’d need doing your job. These mechanics should be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making the decision.