Bathtub refinishing near me Spring Valley California

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You could probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger part of the past century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were assembled around them. These baths were greatly deeper and therefore more inviting than the baths you had see today. The dominant colour for bathtubs is white and it’s also basically the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor alternatives, bathtubs in this age were still very well made. While construction shifted to include lightweights like acrylic, bathtubs in steel appeared, and in layout, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and refined like the cast irons.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and bathtubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of bath could be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Skill Level Estimated Time

• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Innovative
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Wire brush • Masking tape

Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Sailcloth drop cloth

Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack cloth
• Little mixing trough •
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are extremely heavy as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to safely remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel used before it’s finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be employed onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a fresh look bath. It may be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the borders are usually the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in an area continuously subjected to water to remove the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.

Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the bath drain is demanded at a minimum, when upgrading a bathtub’s drain assembly.

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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic stuff, make sure that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it could also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by putting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be leased at home improvement stores or rental centers if additional concerns persist around your ability to work safely or use paint efficiently.
Prepare the Occupation

There are numerous strategies available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. No matter the strategy you decide on, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any occupation training approach you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bathtub surface. Start by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and end with a straight razor blade. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris that’ll make its way to the bottom of the bath.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing bath hardware. The tub’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, along with if this really isn’t possible, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow should you opt to remove a linked lever or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used later in the homework phase to allow for drainage of water.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole bath surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away spots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

Mask both the interior of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Apply masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps below, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense just to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Small Repairs

Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the bath fully and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out fairly over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Abrasive and bleach cleansers might be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Rust or green spots could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors must likewise be addressed. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may appear in the repaired area if needed.

Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: Simply use if acids either weren’t used or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
That is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying amounts of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Pick a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with proper care.
Construct Your Own Apparel

The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). As you move back and forth work using long strokes and also a continuous motion, overlapping slightly. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This approach should give a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years in case you haven’t skimped on prep.
Implementing Finishes: Professional Approach

Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary. It may not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually quite personalized.
Master Techniques

(There’s much discussion online about the favourite sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP over others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Added buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more brilliant luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It is best to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you

It’s often better left to a pro while bathtub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the occupations that are most practically priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
The most crucial factor in hiring a professional for this particular occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t always hire an expert based on the reputation of the firm, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the genuine individual you would desire doing your job. These machinists should have the capacity to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.

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