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You can probably say this about a lot of matters, but bathtubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the past century, bathtubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were built around them. These tubs were significantly fuller and consequently more encouraging than the tubs you had see today. The dominant color for tubs is white and it’s also nearly the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor options, bathtubs in this age were still very well made. Baths in steel appeared while construction shifted to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel tubs were elegant and even sometimes sculptural in layout.

Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and tubs made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of bath may be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Skill Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Complex

Baking soda
Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Masking tape

Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
Store towels or • Paper • Tack material
• Little combining trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that is “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may generally begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings can be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new look tub. It could be worth it to plan for an update of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, also, the borders are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in an area constantly subjected to water to eliminate the drain before applying your new bathtub finish.

Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is demanded at the absolute minimum, when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.

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Because, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic materials, make certain that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns remain around your skill to work safely or apply paint efficiently, ventilation equipment can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Ready the Occupation

There are numerous strategies for essentially preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the approach you choose, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any job prep approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Fully remove. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub.

2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. If this isn’t feasible, as well as the bathtub’s drain is still in good working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Baths fitted with linked stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with vintage bathtubs), it might be better to just conceal overflow plates off. Should you opt to remove a connected lever, be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just choose not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it will be used later in the prep phase.

4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.

5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a comparatively durable plastic, start at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or tub spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps below, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense just to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Make Minor Repairs

Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed expressly for porcelain. Cover of the bath fully and let about 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Choices for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most completing products are self-leveling to the degree that they will level out reasonably over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and stains can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be detrimental to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Green stains or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or chips must additionally be addressed. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.

Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that could show up in the fixed region if needed.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more thorough cleaning, give one final wipe to the bathtub with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. Generally, you’ll locate varying amounts of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and comprehend that cost may inform effectiveness with time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Very Own Apparel

The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using a continuous motion and long strokes, overlapping somewhat as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish that will endure between 3 and 10 years in the event that you’ven’t skimped on prep.
Applying Finishes: Professional Approach

Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary. It might not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is often quite personalized.
Expert Techniques

(There is much debate online about the favorite sprayer kind for this particular job.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is employed. The concluding coat should dry for no less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. A car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first remove from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is frequently better left to a master, while tub refinishing can certainly be a DIY project. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is only one of the jobs that are most nearly priced. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
In hiring a pro for this occupation, the main variable is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t always hire a professional based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their procedure, but instead on the authentic individual you’d want doing your job. These machinists should be able to generate a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.

 

 

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