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You could probably say this about a lot of things, but tubs–they simply don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were constructed around them. These baths were significantly fuller and consequently more encouraging compared to the baths you’d see today. The dominant colour for baths is white and it is essentially the only way to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad alternatives, tubs in this era were still very nicely made. Tubs in steel appeared, while building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel tubs were even occasionally sculptural and refined in layout.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and tubs made of these metals ultimately last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of bath may be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to achieve a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, undoubtedly the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Stuff Skill Level Estimated Time

• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Innovative 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Builders paper
Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Small mixing trough •
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove bathtub, one that’s “built-in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a process called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your tub may have a porcelain enamel employed before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of homework.

Are You Going To Replace Hardware?

Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a brand new appearance tub. It may be worth it to plan for an update of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the borders are usually the “poorest” part of any finish. At minimum, it makes sense in an area constantly subjected to water to remove the drain ahead of applying your new bathtub finish.

Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is called for at the absolute minimum, when updating a bathtub’s drain assembly.

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Because, usually, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear can also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if additional concerns last around your capability to work safely or use paint effectively.
Ready the Occupation

There are numerous strategies for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Whatever the strategy you decide on, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any occupation prep strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bathtub surface. Start by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris which will make its way to the bottom of the bathtub up.

2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. If this isn’t possible, and the tub’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, remove the bathtub’s overflow plate. Should you choose to remove a lever that is connected, be conscious not to allow linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you just select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used much later in the homework period, or make an X.

4) Give the Bath an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bath surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.

5) Mask Off the Tub Space: Using a relatively strong plastic, start at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the bath. Cut holes in locations where faucet or tub spouts handles may seem. Use masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap tub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense only to remove them.

Prepare the Surface and Make Modest Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to implement an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover of the bath completely and let around 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. This is accomplished by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this method is somewhat aggressive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and stains can appear on tub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be detrimental to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or chips must additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry according to the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If necessary, follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets which could appear in the restored area.

Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a more extensive cleaning, give the tub one final wipe with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either weren’t used, simply use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy

Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on alternatives. In general, you’ll locate varying degrees of quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Choose a reputable name and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate attention.
Construct Your Very Own Clothing

Brush on an appropriate bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and also a continuous motion, overlapping somewhat as you move forth and back. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In the event that you haven’t skimped on homework, this process should yield a finish that can last between 3 and 10 years.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy

Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their views vary.
Master Techniques

(There is much discussion online about the favored sprayer type for this particular job.n general, choose airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An automobile compound buffed into the surface using annular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing can also be implemented with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.

Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case some of the just applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you

It’s frequently better left to a professional, while tub refinishing can really be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the occupations that are very almost priced. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
The most crucial variable in hiring a professional for this job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s right, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the reputation of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the authentic individual you would want doing your job. These machinists should be able to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making a choice.



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