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You could probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they only don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger portion of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were built around them. These baths were greatly fuller and thus more inviting than the baths you’d see nowadays. The dominant color for bathtubs is white which is basically the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor options, bathtubs in this era were still very nicely made. Bathtubs in steel seemed while building transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, and like the cast irons, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and refined in layout.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility, even when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is heavier, and baths made of these metals finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub could be refinished while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Ability Level Estimated Time
• Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rags and towels • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or store towels • Tack cloth
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
Plumbing tools that are •
Bathtub Refinishing Considerations
As mentioned previously, cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it’s usually best to approach it while it is still in position.
A refinishing works may often start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings could be applied onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)ended, you’ll have a new appearance tub. It could be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In an area constantly subjected to water, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain prior to applying your new bathtub finish.
Note: Access to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is required at a minimum when updating a bath’s drain assembly.
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Because, generally, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic materials, make sure that you have adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bath fan, it may also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation equipment may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores if additional concerns remain around your capability to work or implement paint efficiently.
Ready the Job
There are numerous strategies available for essentially preparing a bath refinish. No matter the strategy you decide on, take great care during this period. The steps below are common to any job prep strategy you might choose:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bath surface. Start by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead using a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bathtub.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Strategy to replace existing bath hardware. The bath’s drain is still in good working order, and if this really is not attainable, remove. Tubs fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (especially with antique bathtubs), it may be better to just conceal overflow plates away. Should you decide to remove a linked lever, be aware not to enable linkages to fall back in the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the open finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes in masking tape to allow for drainage of water as it’ll be used much later in the prep phase, or make an X.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the whole bathtub surface. Let the product sit for five minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away blots. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the bath dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively sturdy plastic, begin at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub as well as the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bath spouts handles may appear. Apply masking tape prior to spraying.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps under, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it may make sense simply to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Minor Repairs
Utilize a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover the face of the bath fully and let about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with store towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this process is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they’ll level out pretty over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear on bathtub surfaces after decades of improper cleaning. Abrasive and bleach cleaners can be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves working to etch porcelain. Green spots or rust can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Dings or chips must likewise be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the sort used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in modest pockets that may appear in the repaired area if necessary.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with rapid-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids were not used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Approach
There’s a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying amounts of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with proper care.
Assemble Your Own Kit
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. Work using long strokes and also a constant motion, overlapping somewhat as you move forth and back. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This process should give a finish that’ll continue between 3 and 10 years in case you’ven’t skimped on homework.
Employing Finishes: Pro Strategy
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary. It may not be surprising that many pro refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually quite personalized.
(There is much discussion online about the preferred sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP through others.) Determined by the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
Some use a car compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher. Additional buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing can also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Locate a Bathub Professional near you
It’s often better left to a pro, while bathtub refinishing can really be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the most practically priced jobs. Costs generally range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a guarantee that is significant.
In hiring a pro for this particular job, the most significant factor is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t necessarily hire a master based on the standing of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but rather on the genuine person you would need doing your job. These mechanics should have the ability to generate a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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