Bathtub refinishing near me San Diego CA

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You can probably say this about a lot of things, but tubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. Toilets were constructed around them. These baths were considerably deeper and consequently more inviting compared to the baths you had see now. The dominant colour for baths is white which is essentially the sole way to go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the investigation of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these bad choices, bathtubs in this age were still very nicely made. While construction transferred to include lightweights like acrylic, baths in steel seemed, and in design, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant like the cast irons.

Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. While steel is heavy, cast iron is more heavy, and tubs made of these metals finally last well beyond their finish.

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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. Any type of bath may be refinished, while those with a classic clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This post with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.

Tools Materials Skill Level

• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
• Stiff bristle brush • Builders paper
Masking tape
Abrasive cleaning pads
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
Sailcloth drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack cloth
• Small blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Factors
As mentioned above, cast iron and steel tubs are incredibly heavy, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove tub, one that is “built in,” it is usually best to approach it while it’s still in place.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. Once stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel applied before it is finally re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.

Will You Replace Hardware?

Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a brand new look bath. It could be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the borders are typically the “poorest” part of any finish. In a place always subjected to water, before applying your new tub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.

Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity behind the tub drain is called for at a minimum when upgrading a tub’s drain assembly.

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Consider How You’ll VentilateBecause, generally, you’ll be working with paints that are airborne and caustic stuff, make sure that you’ve got sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns last around your capacity to work or implement paint effectively, ventilation gear can also be leased at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job

There are numerous approaches available for effectively preparing a bath refinish. Regardless of the strategy you decide on, take great care in this period. The steps below are common to any job prep strategy you might select:
1) Remove Existing Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the bath surface. Begin by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that could make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.

2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. The bath’s drain remains in excellent working order, as well as if this is not feasible, remove the tub’s overflow plate. Be aware not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow if you determine to remove a linked lever or drain.

3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you simply select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used later in the prep phase to allow for drainage of water.

4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bath surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the bath dry.

5) Mask Off the Bath Space: Using a relatively sturdy plastic, begin at the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the interior of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. Do the same with the bath as it meets the floor. Cut holes in locations where faucet or bathtub spouts handles may seem. Use masking tape before spraying.

6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you might need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrapping tub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense merely to remove them.

Ready the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs

Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain brush or a scrub brush to implement an acid etch designed specially for porcelain. Cover of the bath fully and allow about 15 minutes for this particular merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with bath water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching

Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the tub surface. While this method is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Bath Surface Imperfections

Grittiness and spots can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleansers can be harmful to tub surfaces, themselves. Rust or green stains could be addressed using oxalic acid combined in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Processors or dings must additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry based on the product’s directions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the type used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.

If needed, follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in small pockets that could appear in the restored area.

Wipe Down

Wipe down the tub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a more comprehensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.

Caution: If acids either were not used, only use or have been effectively neutralized.

Applying Finishes: DIY Approach

Refinishing Kits
There is a seemingly countless array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. Generally speaking, you’ll locate varying degrees of both quality and dry times with these products. Do your research before purchasing and comprehend that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Select a reputable name and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish continuing one to five years with proper care.
Build Your Own Clothing

The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make sure to clean it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and a movement that is constant, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play about with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-part marine epoxy. This approach should yield a finish that will last between 3 and 10 years, in case you haven’t skimped on prep.
Employing Finishes: Professional Strategy

Professional refinishers are abundant, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary. It might not be surprising that lots of professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually personalized.
Ace Techniques

Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is put in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There’s much discussion online about the favourite sprayer sort for this particular occupation.n general, pick airless and HVLP over others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The concluding layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An auto compound buffed into the surface using circular buffing pads and an auto polisher is used by some. Hand usually does added buffing. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.

Once the finish has dried to the contact, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with care over the recently finished surface. Bundle waste into construction bags and dispose of appropriately.
While tub refinishing can surely be a DIY job, it’s often better left to a pro. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the jobs that are most practically priced. Prices generally range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a warranty that is significant.
The most important variable in hiring a professional for this particular job is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a master based on the standing of the firm, on their procedure, or on their system, but instead on the real individual you’d need doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to produce a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a choice.

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