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You can probably say this about lots of matters, but tubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were built around them. These baths were considerably fuller and consequently more encouraging compared to the baths you’d see nowadays. The dominant colour for baths is white and it’s nearly the only solution to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the investigation of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this age were still very nicely made. While building shifted to comprise lightweights like acrylic, baths in steel appeared, and in design, these steel baths were even occasionally sculptural and elegant like the cast irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact just slight tweaks in composition would turn one into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and baths made of these metals ultimately well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a tub. Any type of tub can be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to reach a vintage feel. This article focus on the redo of an alcove tub, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level Estimated Time
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleaner Advanced
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Auto polisher/buffer •
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Component fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack cloth
• Little combining trough •
Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electric paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Concerns
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, to safely remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built-in,” it’s typically best to approach it while it is still in place.
A refinishing works may commonly start with a process called “dipping” or stripping the initial finish. Once stripped, your tub may again have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other means of prep.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the assumption that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a new look tub. It may be worth it to plan for an upgrade of the tub’s existing drain hardware.
It should be pointed out, too, that the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. At minimum, it seems sensible in an area always subjected to water to remove the drain prior to applying your new bath finish.
Note: Accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is required at the absolute minimum, when upgrading a bath’s drain assembly.
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Because, in most cases, you’ll be working with airborne paints and caustic substances, make certain that you’ve got adequate ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bath fan, it could also make sense to open a window and utilize cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. Ventilation gear may also be rented at home improvement stores or rental centres if added concerns remain around your ability to work safely or use paint effectively.
Ready the Occupation
There are numerous strategies available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the strategy you select, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any job prep approach you might pick:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bathtub surface. Start by cutting on both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the underparts of the the bath up.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace existing tub hardware. The bathtub’s drain remains in good working order, as well as if this really isn’t possible, remove. Be aware not to allow linkages to fall back in the overflow if you determine to remove a lever that is linked or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop-Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes used} in the prep phase to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleanser, spray down the complete bathtub surface. Allow the merchandise sit for five full minutes and use a stiff-bristled brush to scrub blots away. Because these cleaners are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Then let the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively tough plastic, start in the edge of the bathtub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bathtub in addition to the face (or apron) of the bath as it intersects with bathroom walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in locations where bathtub spouts or faucet handles may seem. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Bath Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other measures beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or additional plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Alternatively, it might make sense simply to remove them.
Ready the Surface and Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover the surface of the tub fully and allow about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a correctly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of using a bonding agent only. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bathtub surface. While this approach is somewhat aggressive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the degree that they’re going to level out moderately over a “ scarified” surface.
Repairing Tub Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners might be damaging to bathtub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a whiting paste.
Dings or processors should additionally be addressed prior to applying a finish. Blend of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in small pockets that may show up in the repaired area, if necessary.
Wipe down the tub with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Discretionary: For a much more extensive cleaning, give one final wipe to the bath with accelerated-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Simply use if acids either were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There is a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits accessible from reputable makers. These products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on options. Generally, you’ll locate varying degrees of quality and dry times with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all directions closely. These kits should give a finish lasting one to five years with proper care.
Construct Your Own Apparel
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rent at local home improvement stores or rental centres). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to clean it thoroughly between steps). Hold the gun about six inches from the surface, when spraying. As you move back and forth work using long strokes along with a continuous movement, overlapping somewhat. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Instead, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. This process should yield a finish which will endure between 3 and 10 years in the event that you haven’t skimped on homework.
Applying Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely. It may not be surprising that many professional refinishers started out in trades like auto body repair, where work is usually quite personalized.
Acrylic urethane enamel, acrylic aliphatic polyurethane, or an epoxy-based finish is applied in multiple layers using a paint sprayer. (There is much debate online about the favored sprayer kind for this occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the merchandise used, each layer should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The final coat should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
An auto compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads is used by some. Additional buffing is often done by hand. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a more dazzling luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
It’s a good idea to work with a utility knife in hand in case any one of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking. Work with attention over the newly finished surface. Package waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
Find a Bathub Professional near you
It’s frequently better left to a guru while tub refinishing can absolutely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bath refinishing is only one of the occupations that are very nearly priced. Costs typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with a significant warranty.
The most crucial factor in hiring a pro for this occupation is the individual tech scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a master based on the standing of the company, on their process, or on their system, but rather on the authentic individual you’d need doing your job. These machinists ought to have the capacity to create a portfolio of work and references. Request it and review it before making the decision.
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