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You can probably say this about lots of things, but bathtubs–they merely don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the larger part of the last century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Toilets were built around them. These baths were considerably deeper and consequently more inviting than the baths you’d find nowadays. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it’s also virtually the sole method to go.
With the 60s and 70s came the exploration of bathroom fixtures in browns, beige, pastels, and the like. Despite these bad choices, bathtubs in this era were still quite nicely made. While construction transferred to comprise lightweights like acrylic, baths in steel seemed, and in layout, these steel baths were refined and even sometimes sculptural like the cast irons.
Cast iron is usually heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It’s a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is more heavy, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these metals finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might choose to refinish a bath. Any kind of tub could be refinished while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to accomplish a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove bath, by far the most frequently installed bathtub.
Tools Substances Ability Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Established commercial cleanser Complex 4 to 8 Hours
• Putty knife •
• Straight razor • Baking soda
• Shop Vac • Plastic sheeting
Polish pads and • Buffing • Sandpaper
• Respirator • Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves •
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
• Paper or shop towels • Tack cloth
• Small mixing trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Peculiarity acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR high gloss polyurethane and white paint
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Caulk gun • Silicone caulk
• Plumbing tools
Bathtub Refinishing Concerns
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel baths are very heavy as mentioned previously, and you’ll need at least three, a hand, deliver and to remove them to a refinishing works. In the event of an alcove tub, one that is “built-in,” it is generally best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may frequently begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the original finish. After stripped, your bathtub may again have a porcelain enamel implemented before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Comparable coatings could be implemented onsite; stripping, however, is replaced with other way of prep.
Will You Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)concluded, you’ll have a brand new look bathtub. It might be worthwhile to plan for an upgrade of the bathtub’s present drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, too, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area continuously subjected to water, before applying your new tub finish, it seems sensible at minimum to eliminate the drain.
Note: When updating a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the tub drain is needed at a minimum.
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Contemplate How You’ll VentilateBecause, in most cases, you’ll be working with caustic stuff and paints that are airborne, make sure that you’ve got sufficient venting as you work. Along with running a built-in bathroom fan, it could additionally make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by setting a fan in an opposing doorway. If added concerns persist around your capability to work safely or use paint effectively, ventilation gear may also be rented at rental centres or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Job
There are numerous strategies available for essentially preparing a tub refinish. Irrespective of the strategy you choose, take great care in this phase. The steps below are common to any occupation training strategy you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk that should be touching the tub surface. Begin by cutting the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Follow with a stiff putty knife and finish with a straight razor blade. Entirely remove all existing caulk. Sweep out or vacuum up any debris which will make its way to the underparts of the the bath.
2) Remove OR Hide the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present bath hardware. The bathtub’s drain continues to be in great working order, as well as if this isn’t attainable, remove the tub’s overflow plate. If you decide to remove a lever that is linked, be conscious not to permit linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain parts as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it’ll be used much later in the prep phase, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Bathtub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the complete bathtub surface. Let the merchandise sit for five full minutes and utilize a stiff-bristled brush to scrub away stains. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively durable plastic, begin at the edge of the tub and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the tub in addition to the face (or apron) of the tub as it intersects with toilet walls. As it meets the floor, do the same with the tub. Cut holes in places where faucet or tub spouts handles may appear. Before spraying, apply masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may need to time this with the other steps beneath, wrapping bathtub spouts and faucets with builder’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will work just as well). Instead, it might make sense only to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Use a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to use an acid etch designed specifically for porcelain. Cover the face of the tub fully and let about 15 minutes for this merchandise to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Remove with a (clean) scrub brush and wash down the drain with tub water. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Options for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of employing a bonding agent just. Others may use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. While this approach is somewhat competitive, most concluding products are self-leveling to the amount that they’re going to level out fairly over a “ ” surface that is scarified.
Mending Bath Surface Imperfections
Spots and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bathtub surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners could be detrimental to bath surfaces, themselves. Rust or green spots can be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish, dings or processors should also be addressed. Mix of two -component fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected region using a plastic spreader. Allow to dry in line with the product’s instructions and sand first with 36-grit sandpaper (the kind used for sanding floors) and then follow with an 80-grit paper to feather out the repair.
Follow with polyester or porcelain glazing to fill in little pockets that may show up in the repaired area if needed.
Wipe down the bath with paper towels and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a more thorough cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with quick-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: Just use if acids either were not used or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There’s a seemingly innumerable collection of refinishing kits available from reputable makers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll on choices. In general, you’ll find varying levels of dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before buying and understand that price may advise effectiveness over time. Choose a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should yield a finish lasting one to five years with appropriate care.
Build Your Own Clothing
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for lease at local home improvement stores or rental facilities). The topcoat is applied using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). Work using long strokes and also a constant motion, overlapping slightly as you move forth and back. Play about with a mixture of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In case you haven’t skimped on prep, this approach should give a finish which will last between 3 and 10 years.
Employing Finishes: Professional Approach
Professional refinishers are numerous, but be warned: techniques and the products used plus their opinions vary.
(There’s much debate online about the favourite sprayer type for this particular job.n general, select airless and HVLP through others.) Depending on the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the following is applied. The concluding layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A car compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and circular buffing pads is used by some. Added buffing is usually done by hand. Glazing may also be used with a soft cloth to bring up a brilliant luster.
Tear Down and Reinstall Fixtures
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove all masking, paper, and plastic from the job site. In case any of the newly applied finish begins to pull away with masking, it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is often better left to a master, while bathtub refinishing can definitely be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego bathtub refinishing is just one of the most practically priced occupations. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are often packaged with a warranty that is significant.
In hiring a professional for this occupation, the most significant variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s correct, don’t necessarily hire an expert based on the standing of the firm, on their system, or on their process, but instead on the genuine person you’d desire doing your job. These machinists ought to be able to create a portfolio of references and work. Request it and review it before making a decision.
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