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You could probably say this about a lot of matters, but tubs–they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. For the bigger portion of the past century, tubs were formed from cast iron and coated with porcelain enamel. Bathrooms were constructed around them. These tubs were greatly fuller and thus more encouraging in relation to the baths you’d see now. The dominant colour for tubs is white and it’s nearly the only method to really go.
With the 60s and 70s arrived the exploration of bathroom fixtures in beige, browns, pastels, and so on. Despite these poor choices, tubs in this era were still very nicely made. Baths in steel appeared while construction transferred to contain lightweights like acrylic, and like the casting irons, these steel bathtubs were even sometimes sculptural and elegant in design.
Cast iron is generally heralded for its indestructibility when rust might set in. It has a close relative in steel, in fact one would turn into the other. Cast iron is heavier, while steel is heavy, and tubs made of these metals finally well beyond their finish.
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For just these reasons, you might decide to refinish a bathtub. Any type of tub could be refinished, while those with a timeless clawfoot refinish hope to attain a vintage feel. This article with focus on the redo of an alcove tub, definitely the most commonly installed bathtub.
Tools Materials Skill Level
• Utility knife • Acid-Based commercial cleanser Advanced
• Putty knife • Acid etching paste
• Wire brush • Masking tape
• Auto polisher/buffer • Abrasive cleaning pads
• Buffing and polish pads • Sandpaper
Canvas drop cloth
• Rubber gloves • Porcelain repair epoxy or polyester glazing putty
Towels and • Rags • Two-Part fiberglass repair putty
Shop towels or • Paper • Tack cloth
• Small blending trough • Porcelain bonding agent
• Plastic spreaders • Specialty acrylic urethane OR acrylic aliphatic polyurethane OR white paint and high gloss polyurethane
• Electrical paint sprayer • Denatured alcohol
• Plumbing tools
Tub Refinishing Considerations
Off Site or In Place?
Cast iron and steel tubs are very heavy, as mentioned above, and you’ll need a hand, at least three, to remove and deliver them to a refinishing works. In case of an alcove tub, one that’s “built in,” it’s generally best to approach it while it’s still in position.
A refinishing works may often begin with a procedure called “dunking” or stripping the initial finish. After stripped, your bath may have a porcelain enamel applied before it’s ultimately re-fired in a kiln. Similar coatings can be used onsite; stripping, nevertheless, is replaced with other means of homework.
Are You Going To Replace Hardware?
Working under the premise that once (re)finished, you’ll have a new look bath. It may be rewarding to plan for an upgrade of the bath’s existing drain hardware.
It ought to be pointed out, also, the edges are typically the “weakest” part of any finish. In an area continuously subjected to water, prior to applying your new bathtub finish, it makes sense at minimum to remove the drain.
Note: When upgrading a bath’s drain assembly, accessibility to the lower wall cavity supporting the bath drain is demanded at the absolute minimum.
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Because, generally, you’ll be working with caustic substances and paints that are airborne, make certain that you have sufficient ventilation as you work. Along with running a built in bathroom fan, it may also make sense to open a window and use cross-ventilation by placing a fan in an opposing doorway. If additional concerns remain around your capacity to work or employ paint efficiently ventilation equipment may also be leased at rental centers or home improvement stores.
Prepare the Occupation
There are numerous approaches for effectively preparing a bath refinish available. Regardless of the approach you decide on, take great care during this period. The measures below are common to any occupation training approach you might select:
1) Remove Present Caulk: Remove caulk which should be contacting the bathtub surface. Begin by cutting both the top and bottom edges of the caulk bead with a utility knife. Entirely remove. Sweep out or vacuum any debris that may make its way to the bottom of the bath up.
2) Remove OR Conceal the Overflow Plate: Plan to replace present tub hardware. If this really isn’t attainable, along with the bath’s drain continues to be in excellent working order, remove the bath’s overflow plate. Tubs fitted with interconnected stoppers can be disconnected or disassembled, but because of uniquenesses in moving parts (notably with antique tubs), it may be better to just mask overflow plates away. If you determine to remove a linked lever, be aware not to enable linkages to fall back into the overflow or drain.
3) Remove Drain Pop Up, Strainer Assembly, OR Mask: Remove as many of the exposed finished drain components as possible. Mask any finished surface that you select not to remove. Poke holes or make an X in masking tape as it will be used in the prep period, to allow for drainage of water.
4) Give the Tub an Industrial Cleaning: Using an acid-based cleaner, spray down the whole bath surface. Allow the product sit for five full minutes and make use of a stiff-bristled brush to scrub spots away. Because these cleansers are caustic, wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Then allow the tub dry.
5) Mask Off the Tub Area: Using a comparatively sturdy plastic, begin at the edge of the bath and mask off the alcove walls at least four feet. Mask both the inside of the bath as well as the face (or apron) of the bathtub as it intersects with toilet walls. Do the same with the tub as it meets the floor. Cut holes in places where bath spouts or faucet handles may appear. Prior to spraying, use masking tape.
6) Mask Tub Spout and Faucet Handles: While you may require to time this with the other steps beneath, wrap bathtub spouts and faucets with contractor’s paper or added plastic (cling wrap will function just as well). Instead, it might make sense just to remove them.
Prepare the Surface and Also Make Modest Repairs
Apply an Acid Etching Paste
Make use of a stiff-bristled four inch stain a scrub brush or brush to apply an acid etch designed particularly for porcelain. Cover of the bath fully and allow about 15 minutes for this particular product to do its thing. Wear rubber gloves (or better) and a properly rated respirator. Wipe dry with shop towels.
Alternatives for Acid Etching
Some will forgo acid etching in favor of applying a bonding agent only. Others might use mechanical means to rough up the bath surface. This really is done by way of using sanding (aka flap) disks fitted to an angle grinder. While this method is somewhat competitive, most finishing products are self-leveling to the amount that they will level out reasonably over a “ scarified” surface.
Fixing Tub Surface Imperfections
Stains and grittiness can appear after decades of improper cleaning on bath surfaces. Bleach and abrasive cleaners can be hazardous to tub surfaces, themselves. Green spots or rust could be addressed using oxalic acid mixed in hot water with talc to form a paste that was whiting.
Prior to applying a finish dings or chips must additionally be addressed. Mix a small batch of two -part fiberglass repair putty and apply to the affected area by means of a plastic spreader.
Follow with porcelain or polyester glazing to fill in little pockets that may show up in the restored area if needed.
Wipe down the bathtub with paper towels first and follow with a tack cloth.
Optional: For a much more comprehensive cleaning, give the bath one final wipe with fast-evaporating denatured alcohol.
Caution: If acids weren’t used, just use or have been effectively neutralized.
Applying Finishes: DIY Strategy
There’s a seemingly innumerable array of refinishing kits accessible from reputable manufacturers. The products vary broadly from epoxies to acrylics, spray-on to brush-on and even to roll-on options. Generally speaking, you’ll find varying degrees of both dry times and quality with these products. Do your homework before purchasing and understand that effectiveness may be informed by cost with time. Pick a name that is reputable and follow all instructions closely. These kits should give a finish continuing one to five years with proper care.
Build Your Very Own Kit
Brush on a suitable bonding agent,or spray on an appropriate primer using an airless (sub HVLP) paint sprayer (available for rental at local home improvement stores or rental centers). The topcoat is implemented using the same sprayer (make certain to wash it thoroughly between steps). When spraying, hold the gun about six inches from the surface. Work using long strokes and also a motion that is continuous, overlapping slightly as you move back and forth. Play around with a combination of white paint and high-gloss polyurethane. Alternatively, spray or roll on a two-component marine epoxy. In the event you’ven’t skimped on homework, this approach should give a finish which will continue between 3 and 10 years.
Applying Finishes: Pro Approach
Professional refinishers are plentiful, but be warned: the products and techniques used plus their opinions vary widely.
(There’s much debate online about the favored sprayer kind for this particular occupation.n general, choose airless and HVLP finished others.) Determined by the product used, each coat should dry 15 to 20 minutes before the next is implemented. The final layer should dry for no significantly less than an hour.
A wet sanding with 600/800/1000-grit paper smooths any imperfections. Some use an automobile compound buffed into the surface using an auto polisher and annular buffing pads. Additional buffing is frequently done by hand. Glazing can also be applied with a soft cloth to bring up a dazzling luster.
Once the finish has dried to the touch, per product recommendations or after two hours, whichever comes first, slowly remove from the job site. In case any one of the recently applied finish begins to pull away with masking it is best to work with a utility knife in hand. Work with care over the just finished surface. Bundle waste into building bags and dispose of appropriately.
It is often better left to a master, while tub refinishing can really be a DIY job. SB Refinishers in San Diego tub refinishing is only one of the most practically priced occupations. Prices typically range from $400 to $500 and are usually packaged with an important warranty.
In hiring a pro for this particular occupation the main variable is the individual technician scheduled to do the work. That’s appropriate, don’t always hire a pro based on the standing of the business, on their procedure, or on their system, but instead on the genuine person you’d desire doing your job. These mechanics ought to be able to produce a portfolio of work and references. Request it before making a decision, and review it.
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